The Lowdown on Cleansing

Cleansing is one of the most important parts of a skincare routine.  In fact, I would say it's as important as moisturising.  The reason most people give for not cleansing is time.  It doesn't have to be time consuming.  If you really are pushed for time, cleansing your face is something that can be done in the bath or the shower and, secondly, it doesn't have to be expensive.

Why cleanse? During the day, the oils in our face attract dust and dirt from the air, as does the moisturiser we put on.  Every 24 hours, the skin cells in the epidermis (the outer layer of skin) is constantly renewing and leaving a layer of dead cells on the surface.  Lastly there's make-up and sweat.  Even if you don't wear make-up, you're still going to sweat.  If all of this is left on the skin day after day, it dulls the complexion and clogs pores.  Think about when you have a bath.  After you've come out, what happens if you rinse the bathtub down with only water? Or worse, you don't rinse it at all? You leave a ring of scum.  If you do this every day, that ring of scum gets scummier.  This is what happens to your skin if you don't cleanse.

There is a plethora of products on the market for us to choose from, so it can be confusing for the 1^st time buyer to know what to go for.  When I first started a skincare routine as a teenager, I was ill-advised and bought a load of products that were unsuitable simply out of humiliation from the sales assistant.  I hope the following list will give you a good starting point.  So, here's the lowdown on cleansing and what you can use. 

SOAP

One of the favourites, but whether you use ordinary detergent soap, or facial bar depends on many factors.  If you don't wear make-up, your skin is oily, it doesn't become sensitised or react to products, the water is soft and you're not worried about ageing, then you can use soap and you might be one of the lucky ones who can 'get away with it'.  Normal household soap contains detergents which will clean adequately and this is certainly the cheaper option.  If using soap with hard water, then it does not rinse off easily so you are likely to get a scum residue, such as the one you leave in the tub after a bath.  If you use make-up, then soap is not good at removing make-up which is nowadays is formulated to have better staying power. 

A lot of people who use facial soap to cleanse are not treating their skin as gently as they think they are.  Soaps are alkaline, about pH 7.0 and above, whereas the skin's pH is about 5.5.  Soaps remove the skin's natural oils as well as the dirt.  In basic terms, this can lead to moisture loss and an entry for bacteria.  The skin should be able to replenish its oils within 24 hours and so correct this deficiency but drier skin often cannot do this.  Do not be fooled by the soaps that advertise they are the same pH as distilled water and therefore lead you to believe they are not drying.  Distilled water is pH 7.0 and is itself drying to skin.

If you are still a die-hard soap and water person and won't be convinced otherwise, then try a bar that is made up mainly of vegetable oils, or a glycerine bar.  Oily soaps are less drying but are also less efficient at cleansing because the oily residue left contains some dirt.  Glycerine soaps can cleanse well and are also less drying but do not lather well so you tend to use more of it.  Facial bars often contain detergents in order to cleanse efficiently, but at the same time, can be drying to dry or sensitive skins.

One of the most important things when using soaps, particularly if you are prone to spots, is to keep them dry and clean, so invest in a large covered soap dish with a draining capacity.

CLEANSING MILK/ LOTION/ CREAM

These are oil and water emulsions, made to different consistencies depending on how thick a texture you are looking for.  These are especially good at cleansing as the oil part removes the make-up, at the same time taking away as little of the natural oils from the skin as possible, while the water carries away the water-soluble waste.  For oily skins, these may not remove enough of the skin's oil to keep it free from spots.  I recommend applying the cleanser with your hands, not with cotton wool.  This way, you use less of the product and, you can also give a light massage to the face as you gently rub in.  Remove with a face cloth dipped in warm water.  Do not use a normal thick face flannel, as you will be tempted to rub and the material can be too rough for the skin.   Choose something very gentle that will not scratch the skin.  Don't use tissues or cotton wool as these may scratch and are not efficient at removing the cleanser. 

CLEANSING GEL

Foaming gels that lather up contain detergents like a soap and can have the same effect.  There are gels which are suitable for drier or sensitised skins and these should not lather up.  Gels are often removed by splashing with water, so ideal for you if you wash your face in the shower.

CLEANSING OIL

There is not as much choice in cleansing oils or cleansing balms but they are lovely to use.  Some companies list them under the name Pre-Cleanser.  They are an oil formula that you massage into the skin using fingertips, then remove with a face cloth.  Oil formulas are efficient at removing excess oil and grime from the skin, without stripping it.  Even if you have an oily skin, one of these cleansers is still going to remove sufficient grease!

HOW OFTEN SHOULD I CLEANSE?

Every day! It need only take a couple of minutes.  Your moisturiser will work more effectively once your skin has been prepped to accept it.  If you live in a tropical, humid or hot climate, then cleanse twice a day.  In the climate that we have in England, I find the best routine is simply to wash the face in the morning with cool or tepid water, then do the proper cleanse at the end of the day.   This way, you take off all the day's dirt, sweat, dead skin cells and waste materials.

I DON'T HAVE TIME ...
Could you spare 2 minutes in your day to:
a) surf the web?
b) check e-mails?
c) watch tv?
d) read? chat? daydream?
Your skin has to last you a lifetime.  Give it 2 minutes a day.

 

 

Top Health Benefits of Chocolate

With Easter upon us, it gives us the second best excuse (after Christmas) to gorge on chocolate.  If you’re only interested in eating it, then read on to see what health benefits chocolate has.  At least you can be slightly guilt-free, knowing that while you’re munching away, some goodness is going into your body.  

 

Flavanols found in cacao are a type of flavanoid that have antioxidant effects and, in particular, can help increase blood flow.  Other types of flavanoids are found in fruit, vegetables and certain drinks like red wine and green tea.  Research continues to prove that the rich flavanol content of the cocoa bean can be beneficial, for example, it can significantly improve cardiovascular health and help reduce blood pressure (taken from Science Daily US).  

Research has also striven to dispel the myths about chocolate.  It is not the trigger to various symptoms including acne, allergies and migraine headaches.  It does, however, contain caffeine, so a hot chocolate just before bed may not be the aid to a good night’s sleep as previously believed.  However, the caffeine content in chocolate is less than in de-caffeinated coffee.   

Chocolate does not contain high cholesterol, indeed dark chocolate can reduce LDL cholesterol (Chocolate Manufacturers Assoc).  In a study by Holland’s National Institute for Public Health they claimed that chocolate contains up to four times the antioxidants found in green tea, dark chocolate that is.  Don’t get too excited though.  Chocolate still comes mixed with butters and saturated fats and sugar!

According to the Harvard School of Public Health, consumption of chocolate is linked to longer life.  However, they are talking of a few pieces a month.  Moderation is key of course.  A square of dark chocolate containing at least 50% cocoa solids per day can be beneficial because of the flavanols and its beneficial effects on high pressure and cholesterol.    

Psychologically, chocolate is a mood-booster.  It boosts serotonin and endorphin levels which give you that feel-good factor.  Unfortunately, this is actually quite addictive and this is where the “moderation is key” advice can fall on deaf ears.   

This is the best bit of all.  Research in the Journal of Nutrition (2010) reported that consuming dark chocolate can protect the skin from sun damage, help increase blood flow to the skin and reduce roughness.  Again, moderation and good dark chocolate.  Dark chocolate is rich in minerals including magnesium, calcium, iron, copper, potassium and zinc, although the levels vary greatly depending on the quality of the chocolate and its manufacture.

Chocolate is a good energy booster.  During the Gulf War, a US chocolate manufacturer was shipping out boxes of the stuff to its troops.  This had also been done previously in WWII.  It fed the troops because of its high fat and nutritional content.  It may have also helped keep them alert due its caffeine content.

The cocoa bean was originally used for savoury rather than sweet dishes.  The ancient Mayans called the plant the “food of the gods” and drew images of the cocoa pod.  The Aztecs, as well as the Mayans then enjoyed the crushed beans as a bitter beverage, sometimes flavoured with chilli.  They believed it imparted wisdom and mental alertness.  To this date, the Mexicans have a famous sauce made of cocoa beans. Called Mole, it is savoury, not sweet.  If you ever look for chocolate bars with a high percentage of cocoa, you will see that there is less sugar, cocoa butter and milk than in other bars like milk chocolate and some mass-produced ones.  The result is a slight bitterness and when you get to 80% cocoa content, it is quite bitter, hardly sweet and pleasantly FILLING.   So, if you come across a recipe that mixes chocolate with meat, don’t turn away in disgust.  It could be a stimulating and nutritious meal.  

Trivia facts:

1) Switzerland is the #1 country in consuming the most chocolate per person, closely followed by Austria and Ireland.  UK is 7^th.

2) If you want to indulge in chocolate and alcohol together, the best pairs are white chocolate with champagne or fizzy wine; dark chocolate with red wine.

3) More chocolate is eaten in the winter than in any other season.

4) 66% of chocolate is eaten between meals, while 22% of chocolate is eaten between 8pm and midnight. (Taken from World Atlas of Chocolate.)

 

Top Health Food - Buckwheat

We are fortunate to see so many international foods in our general shops.  Most large supermarkets now have individual sections for the various continents which cater for  people’s curiosity, otherwise specialist shops do it on-line. 

I first came across buckwheat while in Singapore in the food court section of a shopping mall.  With noodles as a staple of the Asian diet, there was a fantastic restaurant that did just noodles and its USP was the front kitchen which was in full view of the general public.  There, in all its splendour was the noodle expert i.e. the chef.  In a food court you always gather round the place which has the biggest crowds and this was no exception.  Even if you don't like to eat it, watching noodles being made is an art form!

Buckwheat has been around for ages in the Far East, probably centuries but it is becoming more recognised in the west, especially as a health food.

• Buckwheat is actually a fruit, a relative of rhubarb, not related to wheat as the name might suggest. 
• Buckwheat is cholesterol free and nearly fat free.  It has only ½ the calories of barley.
• The proteins in buckwheat are the best known source of high biological value proteins in the plant kingdom, higher than that of the soybean. 
• Buckwheat is rich in phosphorus, potassium, iron, calcium and B-complex vitamins. 
• One cup of buckwheat provides over 20% of dietary fibre.
• Buckwheat contains a substance that lowers and stabilises blood glucose.
• Eating buckwheat lowers cholesterol by preventing it from being absorbed into the small intestine.

You can buy buckwheat as buckwheat or you can buy it in the form of soba noodles.  I like the noodles because they can be used instead of spaghetti.   It is possible to get pure 100% buckwheat although most soba noodles are a combination of wheat flour with buckwheat. Available from Chinese and Japanese food stores or good international food shops.

P.S. Don't gorge on it as you would pasta - buckwheat is actually rather filling.

Reactions to Micro-Needling

Sooner or later, an article comes up that scares us about our health or beauty.  I’m thinking of the vitamin C connection with cancer scare a few years ago, or the various ones we’ve had over why we shouldn’t eat cheese, bread or potatoes.  I’ve written and talked about dermal needling or micro needling for a few years.  

They were originally created by Dr Des Fernandes, the creator of Environ.  The idea behind this was that in surgery, the needles made tiny holes in the skin, puncturing down through the layers.  This ‘injury’ prompted the fibrolasts to start producing collagen which is the protein responsible for giving our skin the plumpness, softness and elasticity that we wish to maintain. 

The second benefit of the needling was to allow any ingredients that were applied to the skin to be absorbed in through the holes, so increasing their effectiveness. Dr Des later adjusted the model of the dermal needle for home use. T his and the surgical model has since been copied many times and it is easy to buy a needling device on the internet or in a beauty shop. 

A paper has now been written which questions the safety of micro needling.  The problem lies not so much in the needling, but what you put on afterwards.  If you buy your home device from a reputable brand and you use it according to the instructions, there is no problem.  If you thereafter apply a cream that has colouring, fragrance or preservatives, therein lies your problem.   After needling, including home needling, you should only apply products that are recommended to you by a professional who sells the device or does the treatment, or who understands the importance that what goes in should prolong the benefits of the treatment, not spoil it.  The brands that I stock (Environ, Epionce and Dermaviduals) are created by doctors who know the products have to be safe post needling, post laser and post surgery. 

All this leaves me wondering when we’re going to see warnings pop up in the papers over the need for needling.

Skin Solutions with Dermaviduals

I know I’m still an aromatherapist at heart. Even though I don’t have a good ‘nose’, I blend accordingly to how I feel on the day about the person sitting in my room and I stock weird oils that no-one’s heard of, Tamanu being my current favourite.  I used Argan oil years ago when it was relatively unknown, before it became the next best thing (and before the price unfortunately rose!).  I do weird experiments with butters and beeswax, I have an enthusiastic collection of dark bottles and I know the Latin names of most of my oils off by heart. So yes, I can’t get the aromatherapist out of me!

That’s partly what drew me to the Dermaviduals range.  From Germany, pure active forms of vitamins and botanicals are used, with no colours, fragrance, preservatives, parabens or emulsifiers.  It complements other ranges so well or stands on its own and best of all, I can create bespoke blends.  What is right for you may not be right for the next person. What is right for you now in winter may not be as suitable for you in the summer.  And if you are loyal to your Environ, Dauphin or Caudalie but feel at times you need something extra, what better than to add a bespoke serum, cream or mask to your routine?

I can make up a desquamating mask, which is a gentle, active version of an exfoliator.  I can put together a serum to wake up the tired eye area when you’re not sleeping well.  Even better, my treatments have evolved to become totally bespoke.  If I am doing a face massage in the facial, I will use a blend of oils from my selection.  Argan oil, rosehip oil, both wonderful for anti-ageing; flaxseed oil, slightly pungent but ideal for restoring omega oils to inflamed skin; tamanu, the antibiotic, anti-fungal, anti-microbial all-round healing oil.

Some of you have already experienced my use of LED light as part of the treatment. Our skin can absorb light and convert it into energy.  In the case of Light Emitting Diodes, this light energy increases cell regeneration and initiates healing.  I use the LED red or blue lights with a concentrated blend of Dermaviduals actives as the light increases their delivery into cells, so enhancing their potency.  In some cases, I will use the sonophoresis (soundwaves) or iontophoresis from my Environ machine to increase absorption of vitamins and actives into the skin.  Or I will apply steam with a desquamating lotion to give a mild dermabrasion effect if your skin is particularly congested.  If you stay for the 1.5 hr facial, you can choose to be treated to a Japanese face massage which includes Japanese Amma movements, acupressure and lymph drainage.  Then finish with cold stones to revitalize the skin.

Smooth out the sagging bits of the body

 

It's feeling very spring-like at the moment which is always good news as we start to get ourselves ready to bare all for summer.  Well, some of us.

The Ageloc body spa is a treatment to smooth skin, soften areas of cellulite and fat build-up, available either as an in-salon treatment or for home use.

Duration?

Each treatment takes between 30-60 minutes, depending on the area to be treated. What it is like?

There is no fat freezing, no beating up black and blue, no muscle jumping or leaping out of your seat.  You might feel a gentle pulsating current but once you’ve got used to the rhythm, this is actually quite a comfortable treatment; some people even liken it to a relaxing massage and fall asleep!

Price?

Each session costs just £35, a snip compared to lipo.  You can buy a course of 6 for £150, saving you £60.

Is there home care advice?

Yes. For best results, you can buy the Dermatic Effects Cream to use on the treated area in between sessions.  It prolongs the effects of the treatment to break down fat and smooth the skin.  On its own, the cream costs £45.  If you buy it with the 1st session, you pay £75 for treatment and cream (saving £5).  What if I buy the device for home use? You can buy the galvanic device to use regularly at home.  It is battery operated and completely portable, about the size of a computer mouse.  Each set also includes the full-size body gel and Dermatic Effects cream. 

What offer is there on the home device?

For every set bought, you receive 2 free galvanic body treatments with the chance to get 2 more free when you buy 2 further treatments. You can do the reverse and can try out the treatments in-salon to first.  If you then decide to buy the home device I will refund the treatment prices.

When does the offer end?

31/5/14, end of May.  Just in time for summer.

BTW, IN THE TOP PHOTO

the right buttock was treated with the body spa, the left not.  Brave girl!

Mineral Lip Exfoliator

At any given time of year, usually cold winter and dry hayfever seasons, I have to do something rather messy to protect and soften my lips, otherwise I tend to get that build-up of unsightly flaky skin, the sort you're tempted to peel off with your fingers.

1) is grab an old soft toothbrush and rub against lips;

2) mix olive oil with granulated sugar and rub against lips.

The first doesn't feel that nice, the second requires a cleaning-up job.

Enter the mineral lip exfoliator from Colorescience.  A cross between the 2 methods detailed above but with just that bit more gloss and high-tech!

• Powerful beta carotene is combined with exfoliating extracts to give that polished look.
• It conditions and nourishes to keep your lips healthy. 
• It removes left over lip colour. 
• A treatment for chapped or torn skin on the lips.
• Exfoliating.

Just rub the saturated oil onto your lips, rub in with fingers (optional) then wipe off.  Apply lip balm.  RRP for the Mineral Lip Exfoliator is £10.  You can get this from me for £6.50 including a free shea butter lip balm.

CACI Jowl Lift

I was taken in by the clever marketing team at CACI telling me I needed to buy the quad probes for the jowl lift.  Was I taken in really? Actually, no.  I'm glad I uhm'd and aah'd for a year before spending a fortune but it's been a good buy.  The first person I tried it on was very pleased with the newly formed apples in her cheek.

When parts of us start to go south, the areas of your face that really start to drag down are the cheeks and the eyelids.   You know when you skilfully draw your eyeliner onto your closed eye, then see it disappear as soon as your opens that your lids have drooped and are hiding your eyeline? That you can correct with clever make-up or CACI to lift the eye area.   The droopy cheeks though need more than just your standard CACI.  That's where the jowl lift comes in.  Here's the marketing blurb from CACI.

"The CACI Jowl Lift facial has been developed to specifically target muscle laxity around the jawline.

The CACI Jowl Lift facial uses new Quad Probe applicators designed to double the lifting action of the CACI treatment system, thereby enhancing results and reducing treatment time. This 15 minute facial treatment helps to improve the appearance of sagging jowls by using the Quad Probes which have been specifically developed to target the muscles around the jawline. The Quad Probes emit tiny electrical impulses to lift, firm and redefine facial contours."

Anti-age with LED (green tea anyone?)

How do you anti-age your skin, calm inflamed skin or treat acne? Chosen method: no pain, gain.  Well, LED or light therapy. 

 

Light therapy, also known as phototherapy, is an extremely gentle yet effective treatment for many skin conditions. Our skin has the ability to absorb the energy given off by LED lights to stimulate cellular regeneration. Originally researched by NASA for their space program, LED (light emitting diode) rays were found to be able to repair the skin, stimulate production of collagen and elastic and help control visible ageing. This is because each colour wavelength of light has a specific and unique frequency vibration. Specific light wavelengths have a stimulatory action on the cells and so can be used to effectively normalize cellular imbalances and treat certain skin conditions.

The RED LED has a longer wavelength and is best for tired and ageing skin. It softens lines, accelerates skin healing and improves skin elasticity and plumpness.

The Blue LED has the shortest wavelength and is best used for skin blemishes, rosacea and acne as it repairs skin and is anti-inflammatory.

I use red and blue lights, either separately or together.  Studies have shown that concentrates or active botanicals placed on the skin are far more efficacious when used in conjunction with LED light.  Further studies have been done to show that a combination of green tea extract and LED gives faster results in softening lines than LEDs alone.   I always use an extract or gel with the LEDs, never LEDs alone.  I use green tea as well as my stock of many other concentrates, including hyaluronic acid, vitamins C and E, omegas and some odd sounding ones like Butcher’s Broom and kiwi seed.

The only disadvantage of LED treatment, if you can call it that, is you don’t feel a current, you don’t have any buzzing or magnetic sensation. In essence, it’s as though nothing is happening other than the glow of the colour. But don’t under-estimate the power of this light. I use the LEDs within a facial for 10-15 minutes, depending on what is required, or if you specifically request it.